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| Photo from http://www.theothersideofthetortilla.com/ |
We are having a RELIC for dinner tonight. An insanely delicous, knock your socks off relic of a recipe.
Way back in 1995, when the FoodTV Network was just beginning, there was a team of women who called themselves (and their show) Too Hot Tamales. The "tamales" were Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger and they are singlhandedly responsible for taking my love of authentic Mexican food and turning them into real recipes that an American could cook. Not the Tex Mex stuff that is as much 'Mexican' as american-style 'Chinese Food' is Chinese. Not that I dont' love a good Tex Mex dish (heck, I'll even eat a bad Tex-Mex dish, especially if someone else cooks it!) but once you've met the REAL Mexico and the blinders are off, there's no substitute for it. And sadly, there are VERY few places in the northern part of the US to get it.
Rick Bayless may have started the movement to bring comida authentica Mexicana to us gringos, but Mary Sue and Susan were the ones who brought it to me, late at night in my parent's family room on Miller Drive - before I knew how to cook or had my own kitchen in which to do it. But this recipe had my name written all over it because it reminded me of the delicious dishes that were cooked for me when I visited my dear friend Jimena in Mexico. She and her mother are incredible chefs, and even published their own cookbook a few years ago. For me - a girl who, at 16, had never eaten anything more exotic than lasagna (let alone visited a foreign country) my trip to their home in Mexico that summer, along with the people I met, the places we visited, and the food we shared, will always be one of my life's most wonderful memories.
For the uninitiated CHILAQUILES (chee-la-KEE-less) are traditional and popular Mexican dish that combines tortillas with sauce and cheese in a delicious casserole that varies by region and even by family. I'm sure that like most traditional dishes, it originated as a way to use up extra food (like leftover tortillas). In Mexico City, where I spent most of my time, the typical sauce is a red chile sauce and it can get pretty spicy.
In a way, chilaquiles is a Mexican equivalent to Italian lasagna, which is why I probably loved it so much! Unlike lasagna though, chilaquiles are most often eaten for breakfast or brunch. Jimena served them at her wedding because the reception went all night and she knew her guests would be grateful for a bite to eat when the sun came up (we sure were!). But the ones the caterer made weren't nearly as good as her mother's. I think that's because, like any traditional food, it tastes best when it's made with love. :)
The recipe for tonight's dinner is the one from Too Hot Tamales, which I printed out 16 years ago and dragged with me through marriage, children, and three moves. It took ten years before I was able to cook it the first time, because it was nearly impossible to find the ingredients in Massachusetts outside of a specialty grocery store in the city. But here in Chicagoland, we are blessed to have a large mexican population, and our grocery stores, (and even the local Walmart!) sell foods that aren't even on the radar back on the east coast. Tomatillos are everywhere and I can find mexican cheeses that my grocers in Massachusetts had never even heard of!
Here is the recipe, adapted by yours truly to save time and money (which weren't issues for the professional chefs who wrote it!) I'm so glad to put it down for posterity because my worn and torn old printout needed a backup!
Green Chicken Chilaquiles
INGREDIENTS:
Four chicken breasts, poached and shredded (or be thrifty and use leftover chicken!)
12 corn tortillas
½ cup vegetable oil
3tsp Salt
½ tsp fresh ground black pepper
½ cup cold water
1 pound tomatillos, husked, washed and quartered
2-4 large jalapenos, chopped (seeds and stems removed unless you like ‘em hot!)
1 large bunch of cilantro
1 ½ onions cut in quarters
½ cup heavy cream (substitute half & half to cut fat and calories)
1 cup grated Manchego cheese (if unavailable, substitute Pecorino or Parmesan)
½ cup grated Anejo cheese (if unavailable, substitute Pecorino or Parmesan)
2 cups Panela Cheese (if unavailable, substitute Ricotta)
Heat oven to 350° and spray a 4 quart casserole with cooking spray.
Combine the cheeses in a bowl.
In a blender, blend the tomatillos, two quarters of the onion, jalapenos, water, cilantro and 2tsp salt until no large chunks remain.
In a medium skillet over medium-low heat, heat the oil. Cook the tortillas one at a time about 5 seconds per side to soften, and then stack on paper towels to drain.
Slice the remaining onion as thinly as you can. In a large mixing bowl, combine the onion, tomatillo salsa, cream (or half & half), 1 tsp salt, black pepper and chicken. Push the solids to the sides of the bowl, letting the juices pool in the middle. You will dip the tortillas in the juice as you assemble the casserole.
Now it’s time to assemble the casserole! (Phew! I know that was a lot of work, but it’s going to be SO worth it!) The layers go like this:
A thin layer of the cheese mixture
4 tortillas dipped in salsa
½ the chicken and sauce
½ the cheese
4 tortillas dipped in salsa
½ the chicken
½ the cheese
4 tortillas dipped in salsa
Cover tightly with tin foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the tin foil and bake for 15 minutes more, or until the edges are brown and the sauce is bubbly. Let sit for 10 minutes before slicing and enjoy! (or should I say, salud!)
Edited to add: I am so proud of my little sous chefs tonight! Molly husked and washed the tomatillos and cilantro and Jack quartered all the tomatillos and measured out all the ingredients. They were both totally grossed out by the green salsa (I personally thought it was glorious!) and abandoned me to go assemble their own plain quesadillas. And Marc went bananas for the dish - he couldn't stop complimenting the chefs. I don't go to this much effort to put dinner on the table often, so I'm glad that when I do, it's worth it! Like I said, food just tastes better when it's made with love!














